Accufab 70 mm throttle Body
#1
Accufab 70 mm throttle Body
I just received an accufab throttle body now is there any mod I should do before bolting it on or am I good to go... Thanks for your input... And I hear Ontario is getting pounded with snow... Skiing at blue should be fantastic
#5
And slightly off topic what kind of agony am I going to experience trying to bolt dohc on my motor... I found some Lincoln heads fairly cheap.. I know I need a new intake... What else can I expect and will change compression ratio... Thanx
#6
As for the dohc heads on your short block,way to much work as you would need every little thing that is required to bolt on the heads.Your better off to get a complete dohc engine really.Be a looooot cheaper.
#7
well i was thinking because this motor is still strong i would buy a block,heads and so on and just build it over the next few years as money comes in...i am in no great need of replacement just yet as this engine only has 140000 on the odometer and shows no signs of weakness...it was just an idea...as far as dohc motors go i was thinking of building one that wouldnt see more than about 6000 rpms so it would be a tire melter and not so much of a screamer...or would a 3 valve motor be better than that...i am just throwing out ideas because i am not a mechanic but i think with enough time and no pressure i could do a good job of putting one together....and these forums are filled with guys like you who have godly amounts of knowledge and i really do love mustangs ...and the thought of doing it myself really floats my boat
#8
Yeah,there is some good info,and guys out there.
Stick with a 4.6 2V,or just go with a 4.6 4v crate.Staying with the 4.6 will keep the cost down,and no fabbing will be required.These days you can build a pretty strong 2V.Trick Flow heads,and intake,numerous cam companies,exhaust,blowers of all sorts,turbos.
The samething goes threw my head over,and over.Which route to go???
Stick with a 4.6 2V,or just go with a 4.6 4v crate.Staying with the 4.6 will keep the cost down,and no fabbing will be required.These days you can build a pretty strong 2V.Trick Flow heads,and intake,numerous cam companies,exhaust,blowers of all sorts,turbos.
The samething goes threw my head over,and over.Which route to go???
#9
There is an install video for the accufab on the American Muscle website so you should check that out.
The 2 pains in the *** on this install are as follows:
1. the 2 screws for the TPS are usually on there like a ****. A few have had them come off easy but most have a hard time getting them off.
2. you have to adjust the TPS once you have the new TB installed on the engine.
Here is a write up on how to do it.
Tuning the TPS
When you tune up your Mustang (wires, plugs, timing, etc.), the checking/adjustment (if needed) of the TPS should always be included. You will need a Phillips screwdriver, a pin, and a voltmeter that can read low voltages accurately. Here is the procedure:
1) Loosen the two screws holding on the TPS, (The screws can be very stubborn, so make sure you have a good quality screw driver that fits snug and has a long handle for lots of torque, or you might strip the heads) just enough to able to swivel the TPS with force.
2) Pierce the "GREEN" wire with the pin and hook the positive (+) lead from the voltmeter to it.
3) Ground the negative (-) lead from the voltmeter. Use a good ground, like the engine or other grounded metal source.
4) Turn your ignition key to the run position, but do not start the vehicle
5) Rotate the TPS until you achieve .98 to .99 Volts (For stock or slightly modified engines).
6) Tighten the screws on the TPS and recheck.
Troubleshooting
If the maximum or minimum voltage you can obtain is close to the above recommended voltage setting (.98-.99), but the TPS just won't turn enough to get it right, you will have to modify the TPS. If you get a very low voltage reading, make sure you have an accurate voltmeter and your connections are solid, if so, you need to replace your TPS. If you have no voltage, you have a bad connection or a bad voltmeter. Rarely, if never, will a TPS be in such bad shape, especially if your car still runs good.
As an extra step, after the TPS is adjusted and everything is running fine, I would disconnect the battery and leave it for a half hour to 45 minutes.
Then reconnect it.
This will cause the computer to clear it's temporary memory (keep alive memory or KAM) and cause it to relearn your idle and af and it will then pick up the new TB and relearn the idle for it.
I find with a TB swap it is better to clear KAM and then TB throttle response is usually better than if you don't clear it.
This is IMO but you don't have to do it.
Good Luck
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03-23-2005 04:44 PM