How hard to change intake manifold?
02-07-2008 | 06:14 PM
#4
how about the injectors how do i get them off are they just like spark plugs unscrew it?? and do i take it off before i remove the manifold or after?
and my biggest fear is the coolant how do i remove the manifold with out getting coolant every were?
and my biggest fear is the coolant how do i remove the manifold with out getting coolant every were?
02-07-2008 | 09:25 PM
#5
Administrator
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 17,778
From: Ontario
You will need to drain the rad first,this way you will not get any coolant anywhere at all.
Start by removing the factory air tube,then your plug wires at the spark plugs,and coil packs(make sure you remember where they go),unplug the alt. ,take the alt. ,and bracket off,then undo the egr tube,or just undo the egr at the upper plenum,your choise,undo the throttle cable,and cruise cable from the throttle body,and then undo the throttle cable/cruise cable bracket at the top of the plenum as a unit,unplug the engine harness at the injectors,temp sensor,coil packs,iac,tps,egr tube sensor,ects,and try to push the harness away from the intake so that it is lying basically right on top each cam cover,or you can just undo it at the main connector at the passenger side firewall and take it right out,up to here,then undo the 4 bolts that hold the fuel rails,then pull up,but try to keep the injectors on the rails,this way you do not get fuel all over,then you can pull each injector off one by one with the fuel rails draining over a bucket.....if you don't want to disconnect the fuel rail,again,this is up to you.
Then you undo the upper rad hose and the one heater core hose at the back of the intake,then you should be set to unbolt the intake to take off.The upper plenum,and throttle body,and aswell all the accessories on the intake can stay on when you take the intake off,but it's up to you,it can be easier to strip the intake when it is out of the car,not that it is hard anyways.Very easy,you could have it of less within a half hour.I know i did.
I think i didn't miss anything.It is very straight forward.Good luck.
Start by removing the factory air tube,then your plug wires at the spark plugs,and coil packs(make sure you remember where they go),unplug the alt. ,take the alt. ,and bracket off,then undo the egr tube,or just undo the egr at the upper plenum,your choise,undo the throttle cable,and cruise cable from the throttle body,and then undo the throttle cable/cruise cable bracket at the top of the plenum as a unit,unplug the engine harness at the injectors,temp sensor,coil packs,iac,tps,egr tube sensor,ects,and try to push the harness away from the intake so that it is lying basically right on top each cam cover,or you can just undo it at the main connector at the passenger side firewall and take it right out,up to here,then undo the 4 bolts that hold the fuel rails,then pull up,but try to keep the injectors on the rails,this way you do not get fuel all over,then you can pull each injector off one by one with the fuel rails draining over a bucket.....if you don't want to disconnect the fuel rail,again,this is up to you.
Then you undo the upper rad hose and the one heater core hose at the back of the intake,then you should be set to unbolt the intake to take off.The upper plenum,and throttle body,and aswell all the accessories on the intake can stay on when you take the intake off,but it's up to you,it can be easier to strip the intake when it is out of the car,not that it is hard anyways.Very easy,you could have it of less within a half hour.I know i did.
I think i didn't miss anything.It is very straight forward.Good luck.
Last edited by 1low03gt; 02-07-2008 at 09:29 PM.
02-07-2008 | 09:29 PM
#6
^The block is still full even with a empty rad. Otherwise the instructions provided are good. (I replied as you were replying, but ya beat me to it).
The injectors pop out very easily, loosen the fuel rail (4-8mm bolts I think), then lightly pry up on the lowest point of the injector housing. The injectors are seated with o-rings, they are secured by the rail. I always blow around the injectors before removing them so no debris falls in the port.
As for the coolant-it's a bit of a pain. I always just remove the upper hose and housing (2-8mm bolts) and jack up the car as high as possible to guide the coolant out, you can use a suction gun to remove the fluid below the housing. I jack it from the back first, then suck it out until no more remains, then I jack the left side and the right to get as much out as possible. After that, I remove both heater hoses off and blow air through one to make sure nothing comes out the other, this will assure you that the level is below the intake.
If you end up leaking some into the engine it's not a huge deal as long as it's not a lot. Do as suggested and it will be minimal at best.
The injectors pop out very easily, loosen the fuel rail (4-8mm bolts I think), then lightly pry up on the lowest point of the injector housing. The injectors are seated with o-rings, they are secured by the rail. I always blow around the injectors before removing them so no debris falls in the port.
As for the coolant-it's a bit of a pain. I always just remove the upper hose and housing (2-8mm bolts) and jack up the car as high as possible to guide the coolant out, you can use a suction gun to remove the fluid below the housing. I jack it from the back first, then suck it out until no more remains, then I jack the left side and the right to get as much out as possible. After that, I remove both heater hoses off and blow air through one to make sure nothing comes out the other, this will assure you that the level is below the intake.
If you end up leaking some into the engine it's not a huge deal as long as it's not a lot. Do as suggested and it will be minimal at best.
Last edited by Ponyryd; 02-07-2008 at 09:32 PM.
02-07-2008 | 10:05 PM
#7
Administrator
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 17,778
From: Ontario
Good point about blowing the crap,and dirt out first.
The only coolant issue i had when i did the Bullitt intake swap,was the under the intake heater metal tube that needed to be swapped out for the Bullitt intake,it still had just a tad off coolant left in it,other then that,there was a little bit of coolant sitting above the thermostat in the house which i let drain into the drain bucket after i took the intake out,and unbolted the t stat housing after,and a little bit that was in the heater hoses,which you will only be needing to take the one off.The 4.6 intake sits above the rad level,and the mounting surface on the heads are level,and sit higher then the rad aswell,so you might get a couple of dribles from the intake itself,nothing much.
I did it the cleanest way possible as my garage is like another room of the house to me,and my GT's engine bay,and engine are very clean,and i couldn't live with myself if i was to let all the coolant and,fuel get all over it.... 
The 2V intake was probably the easist,and cleanest intake swap i have ever done.And i have done quite a few different intake swaps.Good luck!
The only coolant issue i had when i did the Bullitt intake swap,was the under the intake heater metal tube that needed to be swapped out for the Bullitt intake,it still had just a tad off coolant left in it,other then that,there was a little bit of coolant sitting above the thermostat in the house which i let drain into the drain bucket after i took the intake out,and unbolted the t stat housing after,and a little bit that was in the heater hoses,which you will only be needing to take the one off.The 4.6 intake sits above the rad level,and the mounting surface on the heads are level,and sit higher then the rad aswell,so you might get a couple of dribles from the intake itself,nothing much.
I did it the cleanest way possible as my garage is like another room of the house to me,and my GT's engine bay,and engine are very clean,and i couldn't live with myself if i was to let all the coolant and,fuel get all over it....
The 2V intake was probably the easist,and cleanest intake swap i have ever done.And i have done quite a few different intake swaps.Good luck!
02-08-2008 | 01:32 AM
#8
WOW! thanks guys both of you cleared it all up.. also how much do i tighten the bolts for the manifold.. and if im not mistaking each one has its own certain amount of torque to be tightened right?
02-08-2008 | 09:16 AM
#9
Administrator
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 17,778
From: Ontario
Torque specs is between 15 to 22 lbs,so anywhere in the the middle is good,i went 18 ft-lbs for mine,and the order to torque in the following link.
http://www.modulardepot.com/diagrams/intake.gif
http://www.modulardepot.com/diagrams/intake.gif
02-12-2008 | 02:20 AM
#10
CMOC Veteran
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 196
From: Milton & Windsor, ON
This is putting a PI intake on NPI heads, so there's issues with gaskets and coolant passages you wouldn't have.
http://www.mustangforums.com/m_3833004/tm.htm
I also have a word doc with pics, that has FLAWLESS step by step instructions if you give me your email.
I did it in 3 hours my first time in a parking lot, not too hard at all.
http://www.mustangforums.com/m_3833004/tm.htm
I also have a word doc with pics, that has FLAWLESS step by step instructions if you give me your email.
I did it in 3 hours my first time in a parking lot, not too hard at all.
