My 88 5L LX idles poorly (usually will stall if i don't push the gas pedal) for about 5-10 seconds after restarting a warm engine. Problem only occurs between aproximately 3-30 minutes after shutting off the engine. I have owned this vehicle since new and it now has 260,000 km. It is all stock. I first replaced the injectors in 2004 with remanufactured injectors due to puddles of gas on the intake manifold. The remanufactured injectors fixed the original problem but eventually caused a new problem - some of the remanufactured injectors were leaking into the engine while the engine was off and causing flooding. I replaced 3 of the remanufactured injectors with new injectors and the flooding stopped. I now STRONGLY suspect my injectors are, once again, causing this problem (although much less severe). I would like to install a brand new set of injectors. I saw injectors on the Steeda.com site with the following info: part 161-M-9593-C302, EV1 style, orange, 19lbs, 8 for $265. When i called Steeda in Milton they quoted $311. I have seen Accel injectors on the internet for approximately the same price. Any advice on where to buy stock injectors would be appreciated.

I did a fuel pressure test. Got 33psi idling, rises to 40psi and stays there from 3 to 17 minutes after engine is shut off, 36psi at the 28 minute mark, 32psi at the 39 minute mark, 30psi at the 51 minute mark.

 

With the vacuum off you should have 39.5 psi of fuel.
You should just have got your injectors cleaned and flushed. Im not sure were you can do that.
There is more places other the Steeda.
you can try...
www.mustangtoystore.com
www.themustanghop.ca
www.paulsilvaperformance.com
www.summitracing.com
www.rpmoutlet.com
Hope this helps.


Paul Silva Performance has a set on there website right now.
Fuel Injectors: (8) 19lb/hr Injectors, Ford (orange) $80

 

Thanks for the links and information! I prefer new injectors to used/reconditioned. I found 19lb injectors in the Ford Racing catalogue, page 134, part# M-9593-C302. Dixie Ford in Mississauga quoted $265 for 8 (same price as Steeda.com, the US site, without the shipping and handling costs). It's the best price i've seen. Do you think this is a good choice?

The fuel pressure was 33 with vacuum hose on. I believe this is correct. I will check it again with the vacuum hose off to see if it rises to 39.5

 

Don't throw parts at it until you're sure. It would suck to spend $265 plus the time to put them in and find out it's something else. Run the car until it dies and refuses to start. Then, Immediately pull out a few spark plugs..... if your injectors are flooding the engine the plugs will be soaked in gas. After that, check for spark. It could also be a bad TFI module that gets funky once hot.
Personally, I would first remove the IAC motor and thoroughly clean it out and reinstall.
If you wind up buying injectors, buy original Ford Bosch injectors. They are the best.
SS

 

Thanks for the reply Stang Seller. I replaced the injectors a month ago and, just as you suspected, the problem remains.

There is one additional symptom that I didn't mention in my first message: SOMETIMES when starting cold I need to start twice. The engine sounds like it is started but when I release the key it shuts off immediately. On the second attempt it starts and runs fine. I have checked for trouble codes and only found code 33, which is probably unrelated to the problem. I have cleaned the IAC many times. I have searched for a vacuum leak and haven't found one. I am waiting for a new IAC that i ordered on-line from rockauto.com. Ford dealers wanted $180 to $190 for the part. I paid $87 with the exchange rate and shipping for a "Standard" replacement IAC.

I will let you know if the new IAC fixes the problem and please let me know if you have any other suggestions.

 

Sorry, I didn't realize it was an old thread. It could very well be the TFI module or something ignition related, it sounds as though the pickup is losing power and the car dies. You might have a wiring issue, start by checking all your grounds and go from there; Orange wire to back of DS lower intake, ground strap from DS firewall to back of DS cylinder head, battery negative to engine block, battery negative to DS shock tower, and computer ground in passenger kick panel.
SS

 

Hey Stang Seller, I installed the new IAC valve that was on order before I received your last message and the problem remains. You got me thinking about an ignition related problem. I remembered another intermittant problem related to the ignition switch that makes me wonder if the ignition switch is causing a both problems. Sometimes when I turn the key to the Accessory position to listen to the radio the ignition switch doesn't make good contact and I hear crackling on the radio. This makes me wonder if the contacts responsible for powering the ignition system, when the key is in Run position, are also intermittantly faulty.

I would like to replace the ignition switch. This is a cheap component to purchase. Do you agree that this could cause the problem and if so do you have any advice on replacing it? I know there are 2 special torx screws holding the switch in place but an ordinary torx bit won't work. There is a little stud in the middle of the screw head. I could try to break off the little stud or get a special torx bit.

 

Or you could get a dremel and a steady hand, using a ball carbide burr to make the small indentation in the middle of a regular torx bit. Worked for me.

If you're having possible ignition related problems, check it out. Don't assume it could be 'this or that' and throw parts at it. Test the ignition switch, it's not too hard. Find the schematic and trace the wires, and try wiggling it to see if that makes a difference. If you're having a hard time, just go to the junkyard and play around with a Mustang there or even a Ford Tempo (almost identical).
SS

 

I came across this thread years after I started it. For the benefit of anyone reading it I would like to write the solution to my problem. I decided to replace the ignition switch. I bought the switch at Canadian Tire (approx $20) and the torx bit at Part Source (approx $7). The switch was easy to replace and the old switch was falling apart and looked burned in one section.

I think I remember a recall for ignition switches many years ago on several ford models, probably a poorly designed circuit.