Overheating - Suggestions for troubleshooting?
#1
Overheating - Suggestions for troubleshooting?
Guys (gals?),
I picked up my 91 LX vert 5spd last week and have already found out a few of its idiosycracies. The major one that I want to try to solve is the overheating and Low Coolant issue. Apologies in advance of the noobness of these questions - I've spent the past 5 years getting to know alot about my Audi, but today is the first day learning about the innards of the Mustang. (I've only driven her 60+ miles so far including the 25 mile drive home)
The car was great to drive with no problems until Friday afternoon stuck in bumper-to-bumper traffic in the 28-30 degree heat. By the time I got home, the coolant was boiling over out the expansion tank.
1) I have a Low Coolant light coming on intermittently. I have added coolant and have ghetto-repaired a hose. It's been better. I figure I should clean the Low Coolant sensors in the reservoir. Suggestions?
2) I have a sneaking suspicion that the fan isn't working...other than running the car to get it warm, is there any test to check the fan.
What else?
TIA
I picked up my 91 LX vert 5spd last week and have already found out a few of its idiosycracies. The major one that I want to try to solve is the overheating and Low Coolant issue. Apologies in advance of the noobness of these questions - I've spent the past 5 years getting to know alot about my Audi, but today is the first day learning about the innards of the Mustang. (I've only driven her 60+ miles so far including the 25 mile drive home)
The car was great to drive with no problems until Friday afternoon stuck in bumper-to-bumper traffic in the 28-30 degree heat. By the time I got home, the coolant was boiling over out the expansion tank.
1) I have a Low Coolant light coming on intermittently. I have added coolant and have ghetto-repaired a hose. It's been better. I figure I should clean the Low Coolant sensors in the reservoir. Suggestions?
2) I have a sneaking suspicion that the fan isn't working...other than running the car to get it warm, is there any test to check the fan.
What else?
TIA
#2
could be bad hose, air lock you will need to burp it,water pump or fan,is the coolant mixed to right ratio this causes alot of overheating issuses put on a better fan flex a lite or perma cool stock fans blows Check rad cap sounds dumb but it happens themostat might be going
#3
I will have to say it could be a faulty thermostat or fan is not working. I would also check for air lock.
Checking Fan:
I assume we are talking about an electric fan. Disconnect the fan and run a hot wire and a ground wire from the battery to the fan. If the fan spins then it is probably a faulty fan relay if the fan does not come on when the car is hot, which I beleive is under the dash on the drivers side if I remember correctly when mine went on me.
Checking for Air lock:
Remove the cap from the rad. Start the car and let it get to operating temp. Turn the heater control to hot and set the heater to defrost. Run the blower for heat so you can tell if it is getting hot. Keep an eye on the coolant in the rad. Once the Car is at operating temp you should notice air bubbles coming out of the rad. It may spurt out of the hole so be careful. Keep filling the rad untill no air gurgling occures, close the cap and your done.
Water pump:
If you have a faulty water pump you will see dry coolant buildup coming from the waterpump bleed off ports. Time to change the pump.
cheers and hope this helps.
Checking Fan:
I assume we are talking about an electric fan. Disconnect the fan and run a hot wire and a ground wire from the battery to the fan. If the fan spins then it is probably a faulty fan relay if the fan does not come on when the car is hot, which I beleive is under the dash on the drivers side if I remember correctly when mine went on me.
Checking for Air lock:
Remove the cap from the rad. Start the car and let it get to operating temp. Turn the heater control to hot and set the heater to defrost. Run the blower for heat so you can tell if it is getting hot. Keep an eye on the coolant in the rad. Once the Car is at operating temp you should notice air bubbles coming out of the rad. It may spurt out of the hole so be careful. Keep filling the rad untill no air gurgling occures, close the cap and your done.
Water pump:
If you have a faulty water pump you will see dry coolant buildup coming from the waterpump bleed off ports. Time to change the pump.
cheers and hope this helps.
#4
When I bought my car, it overheated the same way yours did in the same situation....Just bought it driving it home and stuck in bumper to bumper and 28*-30* weather
Got it home and pulled the Thermostat out and come to find out the pulled the insert out of the Thermostat!!!
I then instantly replaced it with a 180* and all was fixed.
You may have the same problem, and even if you do rip it apart and it isnt the thermostat Id still put a new 180* in there cause chances there is a 190* in there....
As mentioned above it could have a simple air lock and just needs to be burped
Fan settings on a 87-93 EEC 302 Fox are......
Low Speed Fan On - 220*
Low Speed Fan Off - Not sure could be 190* or 200*
High Speed Fan On - 242*
High Speed Fan Off - 234*
Got it home and pulled the Thermostat out and come to find out the pulled the insert out of the Thermostat!!!
I then instantly replaced it with a 180* and all was fixed.
You may have the same problem, and even if you do rip it apart and it isnt the thermostat Id still put a new 180* in there cause chances there is a 190* in there....
As mentioned above it could have a simple air lock and just needs to be burped
Fan settings on a 87-93 EEC 302 Fox are......
Low Speed Fan On - 220*
Low Speed Fan Off - Not sure could be 190* or 200*
High Speed Fan On - 242*
High Speed Fan Off - 234*
#8
And if the above suggestions don't work out,check out the rad.Especially if it still has the original rad,even if not.Pull the rad cap off,and look inside,if you see that the fins are plugged with "afro" like white/corrossion around the passages,it's usually a sign that it's time for a new rad as it will not allow the rad to flow properly,and means the corrossion is causing restriction.