I just bought a 95 stang gt off an old girl which was well looked after. anyways it is very lazy, slow reving (during load), we thought maybe the cats were clogged up so I removed the two rear cats and gutted the top two as well as put two flo-pro v-forces on, didn't help (sounds better though) it spark knocks sometimes too . more so when its warn out but not always the case.
when I turn the key on the check engine light does not come on (bulb blow or pulled perhaps) my mechanics snap-on code reader won't work without the engine light working so I have to pull the cluster out this weekend and replace bulb I guess. anyone have a clue as to why my stang is sooo lazy? I know its got crappy 2.73 gear but its ridiculous. and out on the highway wide open throttle through all the gears max speed is like 180km/h and if I just use roughly 1/4 throttle it seems to accelerate quicker and can get about 190-195 lol. . . could mass air flow sensor do this?
thanks guys

 

Yes could be you mass air meter, pull it off and clean it. I usually use brake clean.

 

well I pulled the gauge cluster out today and sure enough someone has pulled the bulb for the check engine light, I didn't have a bulb handy so I put the seat belt light in its place, we hooked up a snap-on "ODB I" & "ODB II" code reader but it just said waiting for response and nothing would happen, it wouldn't connect. so the mechanic thinks there could be a broken wire somewhere or the computer could be fried. does this sound right to anyone?

 

needs the bulb for the scanner to work? lmfao........you cannot go any further in checking it out until you get a scanner up and running, reading live data to see what is up.....by what you are telling us, there is a problem if someone umbass went through the trouble of pulling the MIL bulb out....

 

srt,
yeah I thought that sounded like BS to me too. but if the scanner is getting no response what do ya do. . .

 

and I didn't buy the car around home either. I live around moncton, nb. and bought the car in hamilton, on.

 

do yourself a favour and take it a well known shop that does alot of high-end diag/drvieablilty work or take it to the dealer.....belive me when I say this you WILL save yourself money and time.........as a tech of many years(7 for Ford) I have seen it one to many times poeple changing parts on a DTC code only and not reading the data that goes with it...............my .02

 

well. . . made a little progress today anyways, when they were hookin the scanner up on friday and got no response i remember the screen saying "plug into harness on right side of engine bay" and they were hooking up to the left side. . . anyways today a buddy and i were messin around and i told him that, we found the right harness the "ECU Test" not the ANTI-LOCK Unit lol, and made a jumper wire and got some codes off the dash, didnt really help becuase we didnt have a scanner to check the diagnostics, but its a start. . . so then i took the maf off and took the brake cleaner to it, WHOA what a difference that made, like night and day. still not 100% but it made me feel a lot better. the engine light came on a couple times, but tonight it didnt come on at all. . . so this week im gonna get it scanned and the timing checked, i just wanna get it running good, "normal" before i put it up for the winter, and start buying parts. . .
if anyone has any goodies for sale lemme know
thanks guys

 

well it was good for a day. . . next morning went for a drive and its back to being a piece of crap again. tried spraying the maf meter with brake clean again but didn't help this time. . .

 

For one, you cant just use ANY brake clean....Some break cleans leave a residue, I use Red Stallion Brake clean cause it does not leave any residue. You can use other brake cleans but I recommend using a electrical spray afterwards to remove any residue left on the MAF.

Now if the car feels like a dog with broken legs, maybe the previous owner had a hard time getting it to pass an E-Test and they turned the timing down....? Who knows, I mean if the CEL/MIL was removed there is probly more things about the car that you don't know about....
When you go and check the timing on the car make sure you pull out the "SPOUT CONNECTOR", it looks like a little square pill in a plug connector and it is located on the passengers side, right beside the air intake tube above a small aluminum block called the TFI Module mounted on the inner fender.

Your base timing should be 10* Advance If it way out then your balancer might be spun, because they are a 2 piece "Hopefully its not spun"
You can bump your timing up to about 14*ADV but you may need to run a higher Octane fuel if you hear "Ping"

Under drive pulley's will give you a quick 15HP....

Hope this helps