Advice on going to 4.30's from 4.10's
#1
Advice on going to 4.30's from 4.10's
I am thinking of changing from the 4.10's I have in now to 4.30's.
With your guys and gals advice do you think it will be a gain or "worth it" to me for performance.
I will at this time and the next few years stay NA.
I am only looking for gains at the track and do not care what rpm and such the car drives at on the street.
I do not want to go to a 4.56 as I think it will be too radical for my application.
Thanks for your advice and input.
With your guys and gals advice do you think it will be a gain or "worth it" to me for performance.
I will at this time and the next few years stay NA.
I am only looking for gains at the track and do not care what rpm and such the car drives at on the street.
I do not want to go to a 4.56 as I think it will be too radical for my application.
Thanks for your advice and input.
#2
from a mathematical perspective (ie: 4.30/4.10) you're getting a 5% increase in gear ratio
financially...probably $500 ($600 for gears, install and tweak the chip...sell your 410s for $100)
with the Mach's 6800 redline...I'd say do it
financially...probably $500 ($600 for gears, install and tweak the chip...sell your 410s for $100)
with the Mach's 6800 redline...I'd say do it
#3
For better gains go 4:56...if your not worried about the revs go big, you will not notice a 5% gain at the track...it would be less then a difference from a cold day to a hot day. Lots of guys south have Mach's with 4:56's and are now well into the 12's. Check out Stangnet or corall...
#4
Greg, this past summer Wayne ran a 12.9x with his NA Bullitt (minor boltons/tune) and 4.30's. Your car has more power to begin with so I agree go big. As for your 4.10s if your selling them for 100 bucks I will take them.
#5
Originally Posted by Bizness
For better gains go 4:56...if your not worried about the revs go big, you will not notice a 5% gain at the track...it would be less then a difference from a cold day to a hot day. Lots of guys south have Mach's with 4:56's and are now well into the 12's. Check out Stangnet or corall...
Originally Posted by kaylan1521
Your car has more power to begin with so I agree go big. As for your 4.10s if your selling them for 100 bucks I will take them.
Thanks for the feedback all!
#6
If you dont care about the cruising RPM's and what not then go with the 4.56s. Those things certainly pull all the way up to redline. I think 4.30s would work well but wouldnt be worth the small gain. A step up to 4.56s would give you a little more grunt but it would be worth it.
Have you looked at other methods to increasing your ET?? Why not shed the rear seat and trim some weight from the car? Go with a tubular K member instead of the gear install, that would give you a better gain in my opinion.
SS
Have you looked at other methods to increasing your ET?? Why not shed the rear seat and trim some weight from the car? Go with a tubular K member instead of the gear install, that would give you a better gain in my opinion.
SS
#7
Originally Posted by Stang Seller
If you dont care about the cruising RPM's and what not then go with the 4.56s. Those things certainly pull all the way up to redline. I think 4.30s would work well but wouldnt be worth the small gain. A step up to 4.56s would give you a little more grunt but it would be worth it.
Have you looked at other methods to increasing your ET?? Why not shed the rear seat and trim some weight from the car? Go with a tubular K member instead of the gear install, that would give you a better gain in my opinion.
SS
Have you looked at other methods to increasing your ET?? Why not shed the rear seat and trim some weight from the car? Go with a tubular K member instead of the gear install, that would give you a better gain in my opinion.
SS
#9
Originally Posted by gfong
Thanks Eric, do you think that a 15 inch 275/50/15 MT drag radial would hold with 4.56's? Thanks again for your thoughts.
Less air the better...I ran mine at 12-14 psi and I was launching off idol.
Personally if I had your car I would do a back seat delete, move the battery to the trunk, go with some 4:56's and you will be a consistant 12 second car, which is what I know your looking for.
You and I have a simular drive to track race and its hard to go a winter season without some sort of mod...4:56's hands down and sell your 4:10's!
I'll see you at the track in the spring...with my new mod :biggrin:
#10
Originally Posted by Bizness
yes but you will need to reduce the amount of air in them accordingly. The M/T's are a different breed then the Nitto's you ran which I'm sure you know.
Less air the better...I ran mine at 12-14 psi and I was launching off idol.
Personally if I had your car I would do a back seat delete, move the battery to the trunk, go with some 4:56's and you will be a consistant 12 second car, which is what I know your looking for.
You and I have a simular drive to track race and its hard to go a winter season without some sort of mod...4:56's hands down and sell your 4:10's!
I'll see you at the track in the spring...with my new mod :biggrin:
Less air the better...I ran mine at 12-14 psi and I was launching off idol.
Personally if I had your car I would do a back seat delete, move the battery to the trunk, go with some 4:56's and you will be a consistant 12 second car, which is what I know your looking for.
You and I have a simular drive to track race and its hard to go a winter season without some sort of mod...4:56's hands down and sell your 4:10's!
I'll see you at the track in the spring...with my new mod :biggrin: