first foxbody (first muscle car for that matter)
#1
first foxbody (first muscle car for that matter)
Just took my 87 hatch out for the first time and its true what they say about the rears been twitchy lol, but the rear seemed a abit "floaty" I'm assuming its down to the tired springs and shocks....thoughts??
Also the temp gauge barely moves from cold do they run ice cold or do i have a problem.
It also idles at 1200 but that could be down to the thermistor valve been snapped in 2 and the dodgy vac lines i keep finding that are snapped or blocked off.
Also the temp gauge barely moves from cold do they run ice cold or do i have a problem.
It also idles at 1200 but that could be down to the thermistor valve been snapped in 2 and the dodgy vac lines i keep finding that are snapped or blocked off.
#2
Just took my 87 hatch out for the first time and its true what they say about the rears been twitchy lol, but the rear seemed a abit "floaty" I'm assuming its down to the tired springs and shocks....thoughts??
Also the temp gauge barely moves from cold do they run ice cold or do i have a problem.
It also idles at 1200 but that could be down to the thermistor valve been snapped in 2 and the dodgy vac lines i keep finding that are snapped or blocked off.
Also the temp gauge barely moves from cold do they run ice cold or do i have a problem.
It also idles at 1200 but that could be down to the thermistor valve been snapped in 2 and the dodgy vac lines i keep finding that are snapped or blocked off.
#3
The suspension is a must and will be priority.
As for the temp i drove it for about 20 mins in the city and it moved up maybe 2 notches and when I when i opened the hood the expansion tank was full and then drained out after a minute or so.
As for the rear when i grab the wheel and give it a good pull there is a clunking noise, its not a bearing it feels metal to metal.
Any ideas?
As for the temp i drove it for about 20 mins in the city and it moved up maybe 2 notches and when I when i opened the hood the expansion tank was full and then drained out after a minute or so.
As for the rear when i grab the wheel and give it a good pull there is a clunking noise, its not a bearing it feels metal to metal.
Any ideas?
#4
The suspension is a must and will be priority.
As for the temp i drove it for about 20 mins in the city and it moved up maybe 2 notches and when I when i opened the hood the expansion tank was full and then drained out after a minute or so.
As for the rear when i grab the wheel and give it a good pull there is a clunking noise, its not a bearing it feels metal to metal.
Any ideas?
As for the temp i drove it for about 20 mins in the city and it moved up maybe 2 notches and when I when i opened the hood the expansion tank was full and then drained out after a minute or so.
As for the rear when i grab the wheel and give it a good pull there is a clunking noise, its not a bearing it feels metal to metal.
Any ideas?
#5
The suspension is a must and will be priority.
As for the temp i drove it for about 20 mins in the city and it moved up maybe 2 notches and when I when i opened the hood the expansion tank was full and then drained out after a minute or so.
As for the rear when i grab the wheel and give it a good pull there is a clunking noise, its not a bearing it feels metal to metal.
Any ideas?
As for the temp i drove it for about 20 mins in the city and it moved up maybe 2 notches and when I when i opened the hood the expansion tank was full and then drained out after a minute or so.
As for the rear when i grab the wheel and give it a good pull there is a clunking noise, its not a bearing it feels metal to metal.
Any ideas?
#6
what he said, its the c-clips on the end of the axles hitting the carrier. Anything leaking around the axle seals? Its hard to trouble shoot your issues with the info given.
As for the gauge, it could be the sender unit that's bad...that's usually the case. thermostats usually stick closed and then you overheat and blow coolant every where. Even if its fried open you should still see normal temp range on the gauge after a few miles of driving.
So if you car is not overheating, look at the sending unit that screws into the block first. As for the suspension...get under there and start looking at stuff.
As for the gauge, it could be the sender unit that's bad...that's usually the case. thermostats usually stick closed and then you overheat and blow coolant every where. Even if its fried open you should still see normal temp range on the gauge after a few miles of driving.
So if you car is not overheating, look at the sending unit that screws into the block first. As for the suspension...get under there and start looking at stuff.
#7
Thanks for the responses guys the suspension is getting re done for sure.
i will check that it has a thermostat for starters and do the boiling water test and then move on to the sending unit.
Should the overflow work as i described?
i will check that it has a thermostat for starters and do the boiling water test and then move on to the sending unit.
Should the overflow work as i described?
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