Hi All,
I need to do a brake job on my fronts, not really looking to upgrade to a GT rotor but would consider the kit if the price difference can be justified.
What would you recommend as far as discs and pads? What is a good source?
TIA

 

Tricky thing about upgrading parts - you don't really need to justify it if you think it's worthwhile and you're spending your hard earned dollars, the way I look at it.

I'm guessing from your post that you have a V6, and you're looking to upgrade to the GT rotor??

Anything that will improve the stopping power of your Mustang is an improvement from a safety point of view, keeping in mind it depends a lot on the road condition and your tires. I don't really have any recommendations for you man, other than to say it's a great idea, and you should go for it. Lots of different choices out there for parts - best of luck

 

You could easily upgrade to a gt caliper/rotor and that wouldn't be overly expensive as there are a few places selling gt take off parts. However, with shipping and duty on top of the parts it could be a little pricey but still a bargain for the end result.

If that is not an option I would get a good set of drilled rotors and a quality set of ceramic pads.
Whenever I replace rotors I always use drilled only rotors. I make sure the holes are chamfered as well so they will not stress crack. I stay away from slotted rotors as they eat through pads faster.....at least that was my experience when I had a set years ago.

 

I`m pretty happy with the stopping power and service life (30k KMS) of the stock rotor/pad combination as is.
I`ll have to get a price on OEM parts and compare it to the FRPP M-2300-D which is the GT rotor with caliper adapters and available for ~ $150 from the US.
Does anyone know what the stock pad composition is, semi metallic, ceramic?

 

Dude - you only got 30,000 km out of a set of rotors/pads? Doesn't that seem a touch on the low side?? You using that thing as a taxi or what??

 

I think I have seen a few posts over the years where guys have used Hawk pads ( maybe not ). Unless you are going to go racing/drive in an aggressive manner etc I would just stay with the stock brakes, that's just me though. Since 1986 I have only done 1 brake job but I tend to drive any of my cars like gramps. The other way to save brakes is to use the gear box to slow you down assuming you have a 5 speed. This method used to drive my dad nuts as he would always say " the brakes are cheaper than the transmission etc" Good luck which ever way you go!

 

Me and the wife have the argument all the time, wether or not you should downshift, in the mustang and focus I always downshit, she puts it in nuetral and brakes. Weve only had the stang a few months now, but the focus had to have a motor mount replaced after 5 years and all the breaks are still 100%. Was that from me downshifting? I'd think a mustang is built a lot tougher in the clutch and such so I still downshift in it but not in the focus.

30000 on pads isnt that bad if you drive it really hard. If you can get bigger rotors cheep go for it, you should see your pads last longer, but a set of Hawks should also do the same as far as longevity goes. And remember that bigger rotors meens more weight = slower.

 

No it`s my DD, and 30k seems to be about the right interval as was the case with my previous ride. How many cliks do you manage to squeeze out?
It has been my experience that when the rotors warp, as is the case right now, pads and discs are due to be replaced.
I have not inspected the pad thickness but I`m sure they are at the ends of their serviceable life.
I dont downshift (auto) to decelerate either, that method may extend brake life but shortens tranny life IMO.

 

Wasn't busting your ***** man, it was an honest statement and 30k seemed low to me, but then again, I used to have a Chevy Lumina - that thing spit out it's first set of pads and rotors at 50,000 and then seemed to do it every 25,000 after that. I got at least that on my daily driver, with no signs of a problem - I just figured the stock Mustang equipment was a little more durable.The rotors are made so thin these days you pretty much gotta change out both, and warping is because of the lack of sizing. Gone are the days of changing pads and turning rotors for sure.

 

No offence taken guy. OEM parts normally lasts longer than regular jobber parts though I can`t comment on performance parts but I can only imagine they are at least equally good.
I priced Motorcraft pad sets and discs at $102 and $92 each, keep in mind these are apperantly of inferior quality to what the vehicle is equipped with when new.
Those parts are substantially more expensive, at those prices, you would be better off with the higher performance aftermarket parts.
At this point I`m looking at spending `round $300 for something that will most likely not last another 30k KMS