Originally Posted by JohnnyK

Well, the time has FINALLY come after years of stalling where I will be buying a complete suspension kit for my 67 fastback (Provided the priming goes as planned this weekend)..

Hey Johnny Welcome aboard. You should intro yourself in the intro page and tell a bit about yourself and the car etc. ( the Frankenstang story is good!)

I already have new upper control arms and my old saddles with some poly bushings, so I won't be needing those, but I will be needing everything. I also plan to stick a taurus rack or something else in there, as I don't want to deal with the hassles of rebuilding that old steering box just to have sloppy steering..

Well my Taurus rack install is still a work in progress but it was only $300 for the rack and as far as tie rods are concerned you just use Mustang II ones but spindle choice is a factor. I have the chart saved some where. You still need to build the Xmember to hold it. My prototype looks like it may need some slight revision currently. Once I get it sorted out you can get copy of the dimensions of it.


1) I plan (well, have already drilled) the 1" lower (never got that. You'd think raising the control arm would effectly bring the wheel up, therefore lowering the car. Guess the angle would be quite less than optimal though.. ANyways...) relocation holes and was going to go with 1" drop springs as well.. What would I need to make the car level.. I want this to be a decently performing car and plan to mildly build up an EFI 5.0.. Would I want to go with 5 leaf springs? And would I want mid-eye to level them up?

It's not about lowering it's about geometry of the upper arm! The Shelby drop usually gives you a 3/4" drop regardless.
I can't speak for the rear leafs but it really depends on the stance you want. Originally Mustangs had an *** dragging profile. It had to do with the flowing lines of the styling. It was only when guys put big meats on the back in the late 60's that the jacked up backend was in style ala drag racer. Lowering blocks may be another way to go to bring the stance even.

2) I have 1968 spindles (I don't even know WHY I have them, but I do) and would rather use the cheaper 1968 disc brake calipers.. However, if I order 1967 lower control arms (and I already have the uppers) are the balljoint tapers the same for 67-68? As in, can I just mount everything normally and just stick the 68 spindles in there instead?

They are a direct swap. No prob.

3) Am I missing anything important here?
Coil springs
Leaf springs and shackles
Front sway bar kit
Rear sway bar kit
Shocks
Coil spring insulators
Strut rod bushings
Lower control arms
Suspension bumpers (did the front have them as well? or just rear)

That seems to be all, as you have the poly spring perches.

4) Why does everyone include a sway bar with their kits.. Are they just bigger? I never measured mine..

Early cars had no rear bars standard and the original fronts are weenie. Bigger sway bars (anti-sway bars really) make a big difference.

5) Anyone have miscellaneous ideas? Obviously i'm not going concours.. This car was too far gone, I owe it nothing..

6) On a totally different subject, anyone managed to rig up a rack? I'm not going to pay $2000 for a kit that I only hear horror stories about.. I read a lot about using a taurus rack, but people say they lost a lot of radius.. I don't know how much a lot is though.. Also no tie rods mate up or something.. Some websites just took ones for other cars and cut their own threads.. I don't trust that..