LCA relocation brackets, weld in, 05+
#1
LCA relocation brackets, weld in, 05+
Need some assistance with install of LCA relocation brackets. These are Steeda weld in brackets. Seems even the boltin brackets are recommended to be welded in place too.
I am planning to remove the rear axle from the car and will be doing UCA and LCAs. The instructions for the weld in relocation brackets (link below) indicate tack welding in place and confirm the wheel base while doing so. This is when the axle is still in the car. Has anyone installed these weld in brackets while the axle is out of the car? I am thinking of an angle measurement or some other reference point that will ensure the they get installed at the right angle.
Thanks for the help in advance.
Cheers
http://www.steeda.com/store/uploads/...cation-b-1.pdf
I am planning to remove the rear axle from the car and will be doing UCA and LCAs. The instructions for the weld in relocation brackets (link below) indicate tack welding in place and confirm the wheel base while doing so. This is when the axle is still in the car. Has anyone installed these weld in brackets while the axle is out of the car? I am thinking of an angle measurement or some other reference point that will ensure the they get installed at the right angle.
Thanks for the help in advance.
Cheers
http://www.steeda.com/store/uploads/...cation-b-1.pdf
#2
Here are a couple of thread links with failures of no weld brackets! Caution these may make you have second thoughts!
http://www.svtperfor...son-w-pics.html
http://www.modularfo...t-fails-107690/
http://www.svtperfor...son-w-pics.html
http://www.modularfo...t-fails-107690/
#4
My thought on removing the axle was that with a little more work I could remove it and paint the axle housing. I did a half a paint job last winter. So I think after welding the brackets and removing the brakes etc I could coat the whole thing and get a better finish.
Its a long old winter so why not.
Its a long old winter so why not.
#5
My thought on removing the axle was that with a little more work I could remove it and paint the axle housing. I did a half a paint job last winter. So I think after welding the brackets and removing the brakes etc I could coat the whole thing and get a better finish.
Its a long old winter so why not.
Its a long old winter so why not.
I'm thinking your better off removing, painting, then reinstall the rear end and touch up your welds after?? Alignment will be crucial with the aftermarket relocation brackets. keep us updated!
#7
Completed the install of the Steeda UCA and LCAs, set the pinion angle at 1 ¾ Deg. The LCA relocation brackets did not make it on the car. I will wait until I lower the car to do these. Want to make sure the wheel base is correct for the ride height. The LCA are non adjustable, so when the brackets get installed I will be able ensure they get welded in the right spot.
So with the stock springs the LCA angle is 0.5 Deg sloping up to the body from the axle, essentially flat.
The next project will be to lower the car. I read that folks are happy with the results of Ford Racing Parts springs. There seems to be ‘K’ and ‘L’ types. Type L for GT500 and type K for GT, but it seems some people use these interchangeably, is that so?
So with the stock springs the LCA angle is 0.5 Deg sloping up to the body from the axle, essentially flat.
The next project will be to lower the car. I read that folks are happy with the results of Ford Racing Parts springs. There seems to be ‘K’ and ‘L’ types. Type L for GT500 and type K for GT, but it seems some people use these interchangeably, is that so?
#8
My understanding on the L vs K.
L = 1.25" drop and designed for the GT500
K = 1.5" drop and designed for the Mustang GT, but works on the GT500.
I went with the K for a little more drop. You might want to also consider Camber caster plates.
L = 1.25" drop and designed for the GT500
K = 1.5" drop and designed for the Mustang GT, but works on the GT500.
I went with the K for a little more drop. You might want to also consider Camber caster plates.
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