DRY VS WET Kits
#1
DRY VS WET Kits
I'm talking simple kits here, the dry ones vs the wet ones (where fuel flows through the intake with the nitrous). Which do you prefer and why?
I don't want any mention of kits like the NOSSle(sp?) system.
Let the debate begin.
I don't want any mention of kits like the NOSSle(sp?) system.
Let the debate begin.
#3
I've been made aware of the dangers of running a wet kit. Some intakes don't flow very well allowing the fuel/nitrous/air mixture to "pool" in the intake with the potential for some major damage.
Doesn't sound too safe to me.
Doesn't sound too safe to me.
#4
Originally Posted by CMOC Admin
I personally like dry kits as they tend to be cheaper and easier to install. They're not suited for every application, however.
#6
From what I have seen at the track, most of the serious guys I run with are using a wet kit, now I dont know much about Nitrous but a friend of mine ran a wet kit for years and it worked great and gave amazing results on the dyno for a 2000gt, close to 400 TQ. Although I have read several applications where plastic intakes dont seem to like it to well.
O and I voted wet just because it didnt have any votes :biggrin:
continue the debate please...I would love to learn this stuff.
O and I voted wet just because it didnt have any votes :biggrin:
continue the debate please...I would love to learn this stuff.
#7
I would use a dry on a boosted application because of the intercooling effect and there is less of a chance of a nos backfire since there would be no wet fuel in the intake tract.On a n/a I would run a wet to add the correct amount of fuel for the h/p your making on the juice.
#8
Wet kits should only be run with RPM window Switches. This eliminates the possibility of a backfire. Dry kits have problems to. Tuning a sytem which spikes Fuel pressure is a biatch. I prefer wet, weasily tunable and a much more consistent result. Just run the window switch.
#9
If you have a returnless fuel car, DO NOT run a wet kit. You will suck the rails dry and have a huge lean spike. The Ford EEC's are powerful enough to add in fuel using a tune as long as you have the proper injectors/pump.
Spraying in front of the mass air meter is the PROPER way to run nitrous and the easiest (but only good for up to a 75 shot). The EEC will see the nitrous as added air, and compensate for fuel and spark (not spark on pre 94 computers)
On a dry kit, have the proper injectors, and pump and compensate via the computer with a chip.
Spraying in front of the mass air meter is the PROPER way to run nitrous and the easiest (but only good for up to a 75 shot). The EEC will see the nitrous as added air, and compensate for fuel and spark (not spark on pre 94 computers)
On a dry kit, have the proper injectors, and pump and compensate via the computer with a chip.
Last edited by P.Meister; 01-13-2006 at 09:27 PM.
#10
Originally Posted by meister@steeda.ca
If you have a returnless fuel car, DO NOT run a wet kit. You will suck the rails dry and have a huge lean spike. The Ford EEC's are powerful enough to add in fuel using a tune as long as you have the proper injectors/pump.
Spraying in front of the mass air meter is the PROPER way to run nitrous and the easiest (but only good for up to a 75 shot). The EEC will see the nitrous as added air, and compensate for fuel and spark (not spark on pre 94 computers)
On a dry kit, have the proper injectors, and pump and compensate via the computer with a chip.
Spraying in front of the mass air meter is the PROPER way to run nitrous and the easiest (but only good for up to a 75 shot). The EEC will see the nitrous as added air, and compensate for fuel and spark (not spark on pre 94 computers)
On a dry kit, have the proper injectors, and pump and compensate via the computer with a chip.
What about Zex kits with there little brain box setup??